Tourism
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A photo essay and guide about the idyllic village of Nongriat and the living root bridges of Meghalaya, one of the highlights of traveling in Northeast India.
In the far northeast corner of India lies Meghalaya, the “abode of the clouds”. The title is fitting: Meghalaya is the wettest state in India. Every year, more than 12 meters of rain pour down upon its lush green mountains and river valleys.
But the abundant rainfall isn’t the only natural wonder drawing tourists to this northeastern “sister” state. Deep in Meghalaya’s forests grow its most famous attractions: the living root bridge.
Crafted by the local Khasi people, the bridges are made from the roots of rubber trees. Traditionally, the roots are carefully guided across spaces using the straight trunks of betel nut trees…
… and are sometimes tied for increased support.
Looking for more inspiration in Meghalaya? Check out this article on the Mawsmai Caves!
But these days, cables are also used as the base for some root bridges.
There are root bridges scattered all throughout Meghalaya, the bridge in Mawlynnong being the most famous. We chose to skip the crowds and visit the grandest of them all: Umshiang, the double decker bridge in the village of Nongriat, and one of India’s finest offbeat destinations.
Getting there, however, is no simple task. Though visitors’ ways are guided by a newly-minted cement pathway, the journey to Nongriat is a steep one. For information on getting to Cherrapunjee and then to Nongriat, check out our article on how to get to Cherrapunjee from Shillong.
And so our journey begins…
Do look down!
We were plagued by heavy rains as we wound through the forest. Knees wobbled from carrying our packs down the 2,500 stairs, and legs shook as we inched across slippery suspension bridges. But the landscape more than made up for the strain:
Luckily, the slog was mostly downhill (in this direction, anyway), and in about 1.5 hours, we emerged into the paradise that is Nongriat village, Meghalaya.
Talk about a house with a view!
Serene Guesthouse, our temporary home in Nongriat
Torrential downpour trapped us inside for the first day…
… but with a bit of luck and some dances to the weather gods, the pre-monsoon rains let up enough for us to venture out into the forests surrounding Nongriat village, including a short trek to one of the waterfalls nearby.
We didn’t have to stray far to find the main attraction. Umshiang, the double decker living root bridge, is only a stone’s throw away from the village of Nongriat.
This was taken during some seriously torrential downpour. Sebastiaan held a backpack rain cover over me and the tripod while I set up the shot. #teamwork! Note to selves: purchase umbrella for next time.
Gah, just look at it! How is this even possible?
But, of course, there’s more to Nongriat than just the double decker bridge! Take the time to hike an extra hour, and you’ll be treated to all kinds of stunning views.
Not sure if heights or tetanus were a bigger concern while crossing this…
Don’t slip!
… and eventually come to the grand finale: Rainbow Falls.
You can go swimming here, too! But beware—the water is not particularly toasty.
No matter what direction you walk, or which way you look, Nongriat is a treat. If you’re traveling Northeast India, mark it on your map for your next Indian adventure!
Most travelers begin their trip to Nongriat in Shillong, the capital city of Meghalaya state.
From there, travelers need to head to Cherrapunji (also known locally as Sohra) first. Shared Sumos and taxis run to the town from Shillong. For more detailed route information, check out our post on how to reach Cherrapunji from Guwahati (Assam) and Shillong by public transportation.
There are several guesthouses in Nongriat, Serene Guesthouse being the most popular choice. At the time of writing in 2017, rooms were 300 Rs per person. Reasonably priced meals and snacking materials are available from the guesthouses.
If you’re short on time, or don’t want to go through the hassle of arranging everything yourself, we recommend Greener Pastures. They’re a knowledgeable responsible tour company based in Northeast India, and offer great tours of Meghalaya as well as other neighboring states.
Bring an umbrella and a cover for whatever bags you have. Serious downpour is a good possibility, and you don’t want your valuables to get wet! Plastic bags are, for once, your friend. See our monsoon travel packing list for more packing tips. If you want to know more about the Indian state, check out this backpacking guide to Meghalaya.
Nongriat is many things: a testament to human ingenuity, a peaceful natural environment, a home to many Khasi people. All of those demand respect. When visiting Nongriat, please treat the environment as you would your own home.
Read more: 27 easy ways to travel more responsibly
In loving memory of Dr. BJF. I know you would’ve been all over this.
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